There's a company that sells extension cables so that the ECU can be relocated under the seat if the ABS pump has been removed(which I have done) so that'll be my next step. I'm not a big fan of the kit ecu being mounted in the original position even though there is a beefier mounting bracket provided with the GYTR kit. On the kit loom it runs inside the frame(i guess to keep it from getting damaged in a crash situation). I did make one mistake where I copied where the standard loom runs outside the frame close to the ECU. Like a lot of guys I got sick of waiting for the ECU to be cracked and got the GYTR ECU and Loom. So you will have to change your brake lines if you haven't but will need to keep the ABS unit inline unless you have an ABS delete (FTEcu has these) Keep in mind if you haven't the kit bypasses the ABS. While the kit is metal and has vents.just curious if if's something that should be concerned about The ecu bracket is different I'm assuming for weight savings, but the OEM has a huge heat shield while the kit doesn't.But that's your on/off switch pull the cap=off / install cal=on The connector doesn't match the connection for the ignition. I found out the hard way when I connected the battery to find the live circuit. As mentioned above the ignition isn't used, but it doesn't map to the right bar start/stop switch either. How they approach the ON/OFF situation.I know it removes the lights but the items below where connections that were left hanging ![]()
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